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SECTION 4:  THE VACUUM TUBE - also known as “ELECTRON TUBE” or “TUBE”.

In European countries including the UK, Australia and New Zealand, the Vacuum Tube is known as a “VALVE” or “Radio Valve”.


 

The vacuum tube is to an amplifier as the carburettor is to a motor vehicle engine.

If there is no input regulating device, an engine will simply run at full RPM and power output - usually to self-destruction, so the carburettor serves to regulate fuel/air gas mixture and flow into the engine as a means of regulating engine power output.

By means of controlling carburettor operation, the driver determines the speed at which the engine operates - to produce power for transmission through the drive train to the driving wheels.

Similarly, the vacuum tube is an electro-mechanical electronic regulating device that uses a small input effort to produce a comparatively large output power.

Just as we would not claim the butterfly valve in a carburettor produces the engine power output we would not also claim the input signal voltage to a vacuum tube produces the amplifier power output.

Importantly, the vacuum tube, like the carburettor neither produces power nor consumes it (excepting for heating requirements and efficiency losses).

 

PRIMARY FUNCTIONS OF THE VACUUM TUBE IN A GUITAR AMPLIFIER

In considering ELECTRIC GUITAR audio amplifier design principles, it is first vital to understand the vacuum tube serves three fundamental purposes or functions:

1.       RECTIFICATION

2.       PRE-AMPLIFIER – VOLTAGE AMPLIFIERS, PHASE SPLITTING/INVERSION AND SIGNAL DRIVE POWER TO POWER TUBES

3.       POWER AMPLIFIER

 

FIRST PRIMARY FUNCTION: AC TO DC RECTIFICATION

RECTIFICATION

A tube or solid state audio amplifier operates by (DC) direct current. This is the same form of electrical energy that powers a motor vehicle or flashlight or portable radio.

But electrical energy supplied from the power grid is in a different form – being (AC) alternating current.

So it is necessary to convert the mains AC alternating current power to DC direct current to enable the amplifier tubes to function.

In addition, the DC voltage required to operate power tubes is usually significantly higher than the mains AC voltage input.

So both voltage and current undergo change.

The section of the amplifier that does this is called the Power Supply.

The process of changing the form of the energy is called Rectification. It follows that tubes used for this function are called Rectifiers.

The Power Supply includes a Mains Power Plug and lead (or DIN socket), a Fuse, an On-Off switch, a Power Transformer, a Tube Rectifier, one or more Filter Capacitors, and sometimes a Filter Choke.

It is common practice to include a small switching surge bypass capacitor across the mains input to bypass switching spikes.

Vacuum Tubes require to be internally self-heated so the energy for heating is taken directly from the Power Transformer via dedicated low voltage secondary windings.

Tubes used in the Power Supply section must be supplied from windings independent to windings provided for power tubes, driver tubes and pre-amplifier tubes.

Sometimes to eliminate hum in the Preamp section of an amplifier it is necessary to also use DC Direct Current for heating preamp tubes.

 

RECTIFIER CIRCUIT SECTION OF THE AMPLIFIER’S POWER SUPPLY:

If a tube rectifier is installed, its function is to convert alternating current (AC) supplied from the power (mains) ISOLATING transformer secondary winding to direct current (DC), which is necessary for the power and voltage amplifier tubes to operate. A FULL WAVE rectifier tube is the only practical option.

For details as to how this process works see HOW TO DESIGN AND CONSTRUCT A HIGH QUALITY POWER SUPPLY FOR AN AUDIO AMPLIFIER USING ELECTRON TUBES at https://www.oestex.com/tubes/power.html

The rectifier tube does not amplify but acts as a semi-conductor, allowing AC current to pass forwards into the amplifier but blocks reverse current – i.e. conducts in a forwards direction only.

Some amplifiers use two full-wave rectifier tubes operating in parallel to deliver more current and less voltage sag under load current as amplifier power output increases.

Important design elements to watch are:

DIRECTLY HEATED RECTIFIERS (i.e. a tube having a combined filament heater/cathode) such as 5AS4, 5R4, 5U4GB, 5Y3GT, 5Z3, 5V4, 6X4, supplying capacitor input filters produce a peak DC voltage output waveform approximately 1.4 x the rms input voltage at switch-on, slowly reducing as the amplifier progressively draws current and settles into its steady state operating condition. Consequently the first capacitor following the rectifier MUST have a surge rating of at least 1.5 x the rms transformer voltage.

Another option is to use an INDIRECTLY HEATED RECTIFIER tube – i.e. a tube having a separate heater and cathode instead of a filament. Examples are GZ32 and GZ34/5AR4. The advantage of this style of tube is that the DC output voltage under load is higher than a Directly Heated unit. Also the heater warmup time is slower, than the power tubes, thereby reducing the switch-on surge voltage. In some situations the power tube warmup to conduction is slower than the rectifier, resulting in a surge voltage being present until the amplifier settles into its steady state operating condition

FILTERS:

CAPACITOR INPUT FILTERS:

The 100 Hz ripple (hum) voltage present at the output from the rectifier will produce a loud hum in the loudspeaker. This is worse with single-ended output stages (i.e. one tube or parallel single tubes) than push-pull paired tubes. Push-pull operation cancels out some – but not all - of the ripple, so audible hum may still be present.

A Capacitor Input Filter comprises a single electrolytic capacitor connected between B+ and ground.

The capacitance value of electrolytic filter capacitors used with tube rectifiers is limited to about 40 uF for most and 100 uF for a few exceptions. The filter choke is better installed in the negative supply – i.e. between the transformer CT and ground or between a FWB rectifier negative terminal and ground.

The capacitance value of electrolytic filter capacitors used with solid state FWB rectifiers can be as large as required – e.g. 1,000 uF, however care must be taken to limit inrush charging current to a safe value for the power transformer windings.

CHOKE INPUT FILTERS

A PII filter will remove most of the hum but requires a filter choke and a further capacitor, however for cost, space and weight considerations many guitar amplifiers do not include a filter choke. Some designs do instal a small filter choke to supply the driver and preamp tubes where hum can be troublesome. A filter choke is recommended for single-ended amplifiers.

In a push-pull amplifier with Fixed Bias to the power tubes power supply hum can be reduced by careful balancing of power tube bias, however amplifiers using Self-Bias or Cathode Bias systems adjustment is not available so matched tubes may be the answer.

Choke Input Filters produce less ripple (hum) voltage but require a higher input voltage for any given DC output. Choke Input Filters are not usually seen in guitar amplifiers due to the extra cost, space and weight. The AC output voltage is typically 0.9 x the plate to plate AC input voltage after the load settles into its steady state operating condition.  Note the electrolytic filter capacitors must be capable of handling the initial switch-on surge voltage, which will still be at least 1.4 x the AC input voltage. The capacitance value of electrolytic filter capacitors used with tube rectifiers is limited to about 40 uF for most and 100 uF for a few exceptions. The filter choke is better installed in the negative supply – i.e. between the transformer CT and ground or between a FWB rectifier negative terminal and ground.

The capacitance value of electrolytic filter capacitors used with tube rectifiers is limited to about 40 uF for most and 100 uF for a few exceptions. The filter choke is better installed in the negative supply – i.e. between the transformer CT and ground or between a FWB rectifier negative terminal and ground.

 

IMPORTANT: If a standby-switch is included to isolate the B+ supply to the power tubes, it is the case that until the power tubes are connected to the rectifier output all surge voltages will appear across any filter capacitors between the rectifier terminal and the switch and remain until the power tubes conduct – such as during band breaks. It follows that the filter caps must have adequate DC WORKING voltage rating that equals or exceeds the surge voltage.

An alternative method is to switch the AC HV supply between the transformer secondary and the rectifier tube.

 

SOLID STATE RECTIFIERS

SOLID STATE RECTIFIERS may be used to replace tube rectifiers. Solid state FULL WAVE BRIDGE rectifiers offer many advantages, including virtually no losses to B+ voltage under load, low under-chassis physical space requirements, low cost, low heat and most importantly, their ability to handle very large values of filter capacitor to reduce hum, improve voltage regulation and supply adequate current to the power tubes when called upon. Despite these advantages, some guitarists do not like the clean sound they deliver to the speaker so prefer the distorted power sag characteristics produced by tube rectification.

 

DISTORTION

Where distortion is deliberately required one of the easy ways to ensure it is to design in voltage sag in the B+ supply - i.e. as the load current increases so the B+ voltage reduces – moreso than would otherwise occur.

Simple techniques based on the Power Supply are:

·        use the lowest filter capacitor value that will not cause unreasonable hum

·        limit the VA rating of the power transformer to a safe minimum,

·        insert a 50 Ohms wire wound resistor of suitable wattage value into the B+ supply,

·        insert a 50 Ohms wire wound resistor of suitable wattage value between the transformer CT and ground or between a FWB rectifier negative terminal and ground,

·        in fixed bias output stages insert a 50 Ohms wire wound resistor between each power tube socket cathode terminal and ground

·        in fixed bias output stages adjust the bias as negatively as can be audibly tolerated – say 10 mA per tube, to shift operation into Class B. Note Class B operation requires AC signal driving power from the previous stage to the grids of the power tubes. The driving stage may not have adequate output for this mode so adjust the bias until satisfactory performance is achieved.

·        minimise negative feedback from the loudspeaker terminals

·        use a half-wave voltage doubler power supply (is easy with solid state diodes but not practical with tube rectifiers)

Other techniques are described elsewhere in this website

 

CLEAN SOUND

If a clean sound is required the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply may be replaced by polypropylene motor start capacitors. Note the DC rating is 1.4 x the AC rating.

 

POWER OUTPUT STAGE

The function of the vacuum POWER tube is to electronically regulate the Direct Current (DC) flowing through it in such manner that it varies in direct proportion to the applied ALTERNATING CURRENT (AC) signal voltage. This is effected by injecting the AC signal driving voltage into Grid #1 of the vacuum tube. (Other Grids can be used but Grid #1 is the most common configuration).

It is the variable Direct Current flowing in this circuit that, when applied into a LOAD produces the Alternating Current OUTPUT via the output transformer into the loudspeaker -.

Thus the Alternating Current OUTPUT applied into a LOAD produces the useable output from the amplifier.

To simplify our understanding, we could regard the Power Supply Direct Current circuit as the SOURCE of power - or INPUT POWER, and the Alternating Current circuit as the LOAD - or OUTPUT POWER.

Hence the vacuum tube may be classed as a TRANSDUCER because it converts energy from one form – i.e. Direct Current (DC) to Alternating Current (AC). On the other hand, the complete Amplifier is not, because it uses an AC input from the guitar pickups to produce an AC output to the loudspeaker.

The resultant Alternating Current output means that a single vacuum tube provides a common current path for BOTH Direct Current and Alternating Current circuits.

In the case of the DC circuit, that portion of the current path between Plate and Cathode terminals of the vacuum tube, is used to REGULATE the DIRECT CURRENT flow in the whole circuit under constant supply voltage conditions by means of the Control Grid (Grid #1). A negative DC voltage (Grid Bias) is applied to it so that it will present a negatively charged element that controls the current flow to the desired level by interfering - in a deliberately controlled manner - with the ability of the Plate to attract electrons from the Cathode.

Because the vacuum tube has negligible internal DC resistance or AC impedance (see tube rectifier characteristics for typical values) and it is a current path in the circuit supplied by the Power Supply, it is essential to insert a LOAD into the circuit to limit total current to acceptable limits - otherwise the tube would behave as a low-resistance metallic conductor.
 

The second primary function of the vacuum POWER tube is to provide a current path for the load on the power supply source input power - which is in DIRECT CURRENT form.

Without a return path no current will flow in the power source circuit. That is to say, current can only flow in the circuit when the vacuum tube conducts.

This is demonstrated by the fact that if the power supply voltage is applied to the Cathode and Plate terminals of a cold vacuum tube, current will not flow. However if a fixed resistor - having the same resistance value as that specified for the design value of AC load impedance for the particular power output vacuum tube(s)  - is inserted into the circuit in series with the vacuum tube and the tube terminals bridged with a wire conductor, then DC current will flow to a value determined by the resistor.

In the case of a Plate loaded output transformer configuration, the output AC circuit load also is shared with the DC circuit - i.e. is common to both circuits. This is achieved by installing the LOAD in series with the Tube Plate and Cathode terminals.

The value of the DC power so consumed by the circuit will be equivalent to the maximum AC power output plus circuit losses.

Fundamental to amplifier design is the principle that maximum power output of an amplifier is limited to the "prospective power" of the power supply - i.e. the maximum power (Volts x Amperes) the power supply can deliver in any instant of time into its load.

Actual maximum signal power output (including any distorted component) cannot exceed the "prospective power" capability less circuit losses. Circuit losses are always very significant, even at audio frequencies, ranging from about 23% minimum to about 70% of power supply DC input power.

Thus what is of most significance to us is that assuming a constant value of load in the circuit, Actual amplifier power output is regulated by the vacuum tubes in the circuit - not by its load.

Another important concept to understand is that electron flow in vacuum power tubes does not operate in quite the same way as in the electroplating process. In that process using Direct Current, particles of a metal material are transferred from the Cathode to the solution, thence to the Anode - which is the article being electroplated. The Cathode metal is consumed by the process and eventually there is none left.

However in a vacuum tube this process does not occur - i.e. during normal tube operation significant amounts of Cathode material do not deposit onto the Plate. This tells us that the electron flow in a vacuum tube may be nothing more than a static stream of conductive particles that assemble in the tube to bridge the Cathode to the Anode (Plate).

Hence, the performance and "sound" of an audio amplifier should be far more dependent upon circuit design and componentry than what goes on in the vacuum tube itself.

Practical experience though tells us differently and there is provable difference in sound between different tube types.

 

 

SELECT THE TUBE COMPLEMENT

This is also a very crucial step in the design process.

The choice of tubes is very large, however in practice, there are only a few types that have demonstrated over time that they are worthy to be included in a list of preferred tubes for hi-fi amplification.

In my experience most tubes of any given type number have similar characteristics - irrespective of manufacturer - however it is worth mentioning that some current production tubes have different specifications, characteristics and ratings to the original type number specs. In other words, some current manufacturers have abandoned the convention of building a tube that strictly conforms to internationally recognised, "once-only" specifications for any specific type number, permanently determined at the time of original registration.

The standard protocol has always been that an incremental change or variant requires either a suffix or a new type number.

Proceed with caution.
 

OUTPUT TUBES

The choice of output stage configuration will have already been made, and that will determine the first main category of tube – i.e. triode, tetrode, pentode or beam power tube.

Top cap or plain.

The next step is to select a tube that will deliver the required power output.

Tube handbooks usually provide typical operating characteristics for a range of conditions so the choice must be made to determine actual operating conditions.

Classes of operation, fixed or cathode bias and type of interstage coupling from the driver stage need to be determined.

This set of decisions will determine:
 

·  Grid #1 bias voltage

·  Grid #1 resistor or transformer impedance

·  Cathode bias resistor (if fitted) and bypass capacitor spec's

·  Output transformer load impedance

·  Simple or complex transformer
.
.
Notwithstanding any other considerations, there is no doubt that for a sweet natural sound, the TRIODE is best.

Next comes the ULTRA-LINEAR option using BEAM POWER TUBES – after Triodes is best for bass.

TETRODE or PENTODE or BEAM POWER TUBE operation is ideal for electric guitar and is the most commonly used system throughout the music industry.

 

TUBE MOUNTING

Tubes may be mounted:
 

·  vertically with base down     (the most common configuration)

·  vertically with base up         (may require a restraining device to prevent the tube from falling out of its socket)

·  horizontally                        (best for multiple tube configurations because the heat is able to dissipate more easily)
.

 

NOTE: In the case of horizontal mounting, tubes should be mounted with the grid wires aligned in the vertical plane - to prevent grid sag when hot and consequent risk of changing grid characteristics - or even creating an inter-electrode short-circuit. This mounting configuration also enhances heat dissipation into the surrounding air, resulting in cooler operation.

 

The harder the tubes are operated – i.e. more volts and more amps – the more likely the grid wires will overheat.

WARNING: SOME TUBE TYPES ARE NOT MANUFACTURED WITH CONSISTENT TUBE ELEMENT ORIENTATION IN RELATION TO THEIR BASE PIN CONFIGURATION - THESE TUBES ARE NOT DESIRABLE FOR HORIZONTAL MOUNTING CONFIGURATIONS BECAUSE REPLACEMENT TUBES MAY HAVE A DIFFERENT ORIENTATION THAN THE ORIGINAL USED TO DETERMINE CHASSIS LAYOUT.

In all cases at least 6 mm or 1/4" inch spacing must be provided between tubes to ensure their bulb temperature does not exceed rated limits. Ensure the actual Plate Dissipation does not exceed the rated value for the tube.

Adequate ventilation is essential. Do not mount tubes near components likely to ignite or to be affected by heat – e.g. electrolytic capacitors, transformers, cables, plastic components, wooden cabinets etc. - allow at least 2 inches (50 mm) free air clearance. Electrolytic capacitors can dry out then explode.

In the case of rectifiers and power tubes the most common tube internal design configuration is where the Plate assembly is approximately rectangular in section - often with a join in the centre of the wide faces.

The vertical wire posts that support the Plate assembly are nearly always on the hottest faces of the tube - often accompanied by extra cooling fins that extend out from the Plate.

In all cases it is advisable to instal the tube such that the wide face of the Plate - which is the hottest part of the tube - is facing away from adjoining components or other tubes.

The Cathode and Grid wires can sometimes be seen from the outside and these indicate how the tube is constructed, however in the case of Beam Power Tubes the internal wires are usually hidden inside the Plate and Beam electrode assembly.

If a cooling fan (easy nowadays with the availability of low-cost computer fans) is installed, ensure the fan blows towards the narrow face of the Plate assembly so that heat radiated from both sides of the Plate is cooled. Do not instal the fan too close to a rectifier or power tube because the RADIATED heat will extend a significant distance - allow at least 50 mm (2") clearance between a fan and a power tube.
 

PREAMP and DRIVER TUBES

Here we have a wide choice, but essentially it is one of triodes or pentodes.

Both styles come in low, medium or high gain varieties.

Triodes are available in single or twin styles (in the same bottle)

Guitar and Bass amplifiers often operate under severe conditions of vibration - just feel the floor of a stage!!!!.

 

Recommended tubes for low-noise, low hum and low microphony, are the 12AY7/6072 triode and EF86/6BK8/Z729/M8195 pentode, however very good results will be obtained from more readily available tubes.

In general the 6AV6/12AX7/7025 family provide a "bright" sound, or tone, the 12AT7, or 12AU7 or 12AV7 a "neutral" or "natural" sound, and the 6CG7/6SN7 a "gutsy" or "bassy" sound. All of course, will provide a "flat" frequency response when an amplifier is on test.

 

All popular tube types are available in military or industrial versions – usually vintage stock.

The “W” suffix after the type number generally means “ruggedised” for rough conditions – such as a guitar amp on stage. Refer to the tube data sheet to confirm.

The letter “A” suffix after the type number generally means a controlled heater warm-up time. This helps reduce switch-on surge current to the rectifier tube. The letter “A” sometimes refers to a different attribute so check the data sheet.

The letters “B” and “C” refer to upgrades from the original type - check the data sheet.

The letter “G” refers to a glass bottle upgrade from the original metal type - check the data sheet.

The letters GT, GTA, GTB, GA, GB and GC” refer to upgrades from the original glass bottle type - check the data sheet.

Many tubes are made in variants from the original version. Variants have a different type number and may have higher ratings or a different pinout - check the data sheet.

Many tubes having USA, Euro, British, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, Indian and other type numbers are interchangeable - check the data sheets.

Euro type numbers sometimes have “SQ - special quality” equivalents offering a 10,000 hour life and other attributes. The type numbering of popular types is re-arranged to indicate the SQ version. e.g. an EL84 becomes an E84L (SQ version) or EF86 becomes an E86F. Check the data sheets.

US SQ tubes have a 4 digit number – refer data sheets.

US military and industrial tubes have a 4 digit number – refer data sheets.

It is wise to consult the tube specs to determine why it has an industrial number, because often the industrial characteristic have no impact on "sound" at all – e.g. long life. It may be "ruggedised" or have particular selection, inspection or test characteristics directed at specific non-audio applications.

 

Note however, regardless of type number, it is well established empirically, that the material and dimensions of the Plate element affect the sound tonal characteristics and many audiophiles have specific preferences in this regard.

My personal preference is for long black plates in all tubes. Plate material varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and between batches and is not shown in tube data sheets.

The choice of an "industrial" grade or "premium quality" tube does not always provide superior results to a domestic equivalent.

Where possible, choose Preamp and Phase-splitter tubes that have a high heater/cathode voltage rating – usually 200 VDC.

Prefer Preamp and Phase-splitter tubes that have twisted heater wires. This hum-reducing feature is not mentioned in data sheets so look inside the tube bottle.

Some of the RCA Hi-Fi circuits use pentodes, such as the 6AU6, 6CB6, 6U8, and 5879. There is also the Euro EF86.

Irrespective of the class of tube – i.e. receiving, industrial, RF, military or hi-fi - care should be taken in selecting actual tubes - for any given type number there are very wide variations in tube characteristics such as hum, noise, microphony and reliability. The most reliable method is to just plug a tube in and try it.

Where substitute or equivalent type numbers are selected, check the tube specs to ensure the pinout matches the socket wiring.

Note: Some modern production twin triodes are fitted with smaller diameter pins than vintage tubes. Consequently modern sockets may not accept vintage tubes.

Sometimes it will be necessary to use shielding cans around driver tubes to eliminate hum and stray RF pickup - however cans tend to increase the risk of microphony (mechanical feedback).

Do not mount driver stage tubes near magnetic components such as transformers or loudspeakers - to prevent magnetic interaction or hum induction.  This is relevant to combo amps where the chassis is inverted and tubes are located close to the speaker magnet and cone vibrations.

Microphony can be an issue in combo amps. If present it may be necessary to change the tubes until a quiet unit is found, or try a “W” version if available. The 6SL7 is renown for microphony but can be replaced by the military 5691.

 

SPARE TUBES

Always carry a spare set of tubes – and fuses.

Although quality manufactured tubes can last 20 to 30 years or more, some commercial guitar amplifier designs push the tubes to their limits so last no more than a year or two.

Worn power tubes produce less power.

Worn preamp tubes generally lose top end and sound dull.

The reason electron tubes are plug-in is because they can wear out over time or fail.

A failed tube can be easily replaced in-situ, whereas failed solid state devices usually require a trip to the service shop and big bucks in parts and labour.

All tubes are designed to run hot so DO NOT try to replace a hot tube with bare hands.

When installing or removing a tube always CAREFULLY insert or remove it perpendicular to the socket face to avoid bending the pins.

Miniature 7 and 9 pin tube pins must be carefully oriented with the socket to ensure the tube is not inserted incorrectly into the wrong socket terminals.

If a tube fails during a gig it can be replaced in a few minutes – depends mainly on access to the socket.

If you are designing and building your own amplifier make sure the covers can be removed easily and quickly. Holding up a show while you repair your amp is not well received by your audience.

Always carry the right tools to enable replacement – might be just a screwdriver.

 

NEW OR USED – WHICH IS BETTER?

Many people believe the only good tube is a new one.

But a moment’s thought tells us that the only difference between a new and used tube is that as soon as a new tube is plugged in and switched on it becomes used.

Tubes are vacuum sealed, can sit on a shelf for 60 years then work first time plugged in.

What does matter is the condition of the tube and its performance.

Tube tests tell us that many new tubes have low emission as a result of manufacturing tolerances. So a low new tube can be not as good as a high used tube.

What is more important is that tubes in a full-wave rectifier, push-pull phase inverter stage, or power output stage are matched for current. Where the amplifier provides adjustable grid bias matching is not so important.

So long as a tube does the job for which it intended it can be regard as good.

 

CARE

DO NOT wash electron tubes with water or detergent because the type number will be washed off.

Some tube types can be recognised by their construction but most of the twin triode family look the same

Try not to drop a tube onto a concrete floor. Miniature tubes tend to survive but expensive power tubes will most likely shatter.

To ensure good contact in the tube socket clean the tube pins with a toothbrush to remove dirt and grime. Chemical cleaners can be used but keep away from the bottle lettering.

 

 


 



 

REMEMBER - ALWAYS TAKE CARE WHEN WORKING WITH HIGH-VOLTAGE - DEATH IS PERMANENT!!
 

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This page last modified 11 July 2023
 

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