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SECTION 5:        POWER (WATTS RMS)

 
 



 

STEP 1:     DECIDE HOW MUCH POWER (WATTS RMS) IS NEEDED

The sound we actually here is acoustical energy in the form of sound waves generated by the loudspeaker, which in turn is driven by the amplifier.

The loudness of the sound is expressed either as a Phon or in SPL.

Note: In the real world SPL is called “volume”. The “volume control” on an amplifier adjusts the signal voltage supplied to the amplifier input and that controls the power output - because everything after the volume control has a fixed amplification ratio (gain) and is non-adjustable. A “gain” control is not a volume control – its purpose it to fix the gain ratio from signal input to signal output.

The unit of measure is the dB or decibel.

See dB Ratio Chart.

It follows than that to produce a specified sound level (SPL) we need to know the efficiency of the loudspeaker in SPL at 1 Watt electrical input, multiplied by the desired SPL loudness.

e.g. if the speaker has an SPL efficiency rating of 100 dB at 1 Watt rms input, then to produce a 20 dB increase in SPL we will need 100 x 1 = 100 watts rms input.

As a guide 20 db is the full dynamic range of a vynil recording – i.e. from softest to loudest.

The average band will typically play at around 100 db - comfortably loud.

But to increase the SPL by another 20 dB lifts the power requirement to 10,000 Watts rms. This is realm of the massive sound arrays we see at outdoor concerts.

Back in the real world the guitarist needs to make some up-front decisions because the range of practical amplifier power outputs is limited to a range of about 1 to 100 watts rms.

Note: Specialty guitar and bass amps in the range to 400 to 500 Watts have been made and are still made but they are very heavy and not for the weak or feint hearted. Just the power transformer and output transformers will weigh in at about 30kg. This power level is also a challenge for the DIYer because commercial output transformers are not available off the shelf so must be custom designed and manufactured.

The following graph shows how sensitive the human ear is to frequency.

Loudness.jpg

A shown in Section  6: The Loudspeaker the full frequency range of a guitar including harmonics is from about 80 Hz through to 3 kHz

Omit the harmonics and the fundamental frequency range reduces to 82 to 660 Hz at the 12th fret.

In other words, ALL of the sound produced by a guitar falls within the frequency range where our hearing is at its best - i.e. 1000 Hz to 2000 kHz.

This frequency range is comparable to the human voice so explains why traditional public address amplifiers (PA) were very successful in the early years of amplified guitar.

The above graph shows that in that frequency range our hearing sensitivity increases as the sound level increases – the louder we play the better and more evenly the audience hears it.

Note: The graph shows that at all frequencies the bass guitar will appear to be louder than the guitar – the difference reducing with SPL (i.e. as volume/loudness increases) - but because bass loudspeakers have an inverse SPL to power input ratio in the lower range, the power required to equal the guitar SPL will be many times higher. This is discussed separately.

Estimation of User needs for final amplifier electric power output is necessary to determine the core design specification requirements for critical components such as tube type, output transformer, power transformer, chassis size, ventilation and gross weight.

These in turn, determine needs for B+ voltage and current, grid bias voltages, rectifier and electrolytic capacitor voltage ratings etc.

Hence, a very apt starting point is to determine power needs.

However since there is no reference point to start from this can be a tricky exercise.

It is assumed you will be using loudspeakers - which are transducers used to convert alternating current electrical energy into acoustic, audio or sound pressure energy. Loudspeakers are notoriously inefficient and fragile devices and great care should be taken in their selection, mounting, installation and operation.

Generally speaking, listening to recorded music in an average room at a comfortable level requires only about one watt RMS - which is surprisingly loud with a typical 85-90 dB SPL efficiency loudspeaker - even louder with 100 dB SPL efficiency units.

Note: SPL on its own does not convey the volume of air being pumped. The SPL rating is a measure of "loudness" determined at 1 watt electrical input (amplifier output) at 1 metre from the speaker face. Power used to be measured with a single frequency rms signal, but nowadays all kinds of rating changing techniques are used by loudspeaker manufacturers to rate electrical power input - e.g. music power, white noise, pink noise, peak power, programme power, etc - all expressed in "watts".

We may reasonably then ask the question "what is a watt"?

Or, "when is a watt not a watt"?

To provide for the minimum full dynamic range of recorded music - i.e. 20 dB – over a starting point of say 0.5 Watts average a total power rating of 50 Watts RMS will be a reasonable target to enable transients to be reproduced without too much audible distortion above normal listening requirements.

For every 3 dB increase in SPL the electrical power must double.

For every 3 dB decrease in SPL the electrical power is halved.

In this age of digital recording, musicians have found it necessary to resort to effects to produce saleable product, hence it is common nowadays for CD's to incorporate extreme levels of low frequencies of all kinds of waveforms, to produce that "thumping" brain-deadening sound so beloved of today's teenie-boppers.

Unfortunately this means that to attain realistic sound reproduction free from audible distortion, a 50 W RMS amplifier and a 50 W RMS loudspeaker system (25 W RMS per channel - stereo) is mandatory. This equates to 75 watts EIA, 100 watts peak or up to 800 watts PMPO.

Of course a lesser level of power may be usefully utilised but transient peaks may be cut-off or truncated, with a corresponding loss of realism.

It all depends upon how loud the amplifier is played. Obviously is the amplifier is capable of 100 Watts it is not necessary to drive it to that level. Experienced guitarists know what power their amp will need and usually use the lightest and most compact amp in their stable – make life easier.

A more detailed explanation of this requirement is provided by Dave O'Brien, formerly from McIntosh Laboratories, in his description of his "Spectral Fidelity Test for Intermodulation Distortion" (IMD).    IMD is what causes the sound to become "fuzzy" at high volumes.

See also an interesting overview at http://www.axiomaudio.com/archives/power.html

Note: Recording technologies have always been far ahead of playback technologies. Examples of just how good recording technologies and standards have been in the past are easily heard by listening to recordings made way back in the 1940's and 1950's, or even earlier in some cases. (Some of my CD's include original recordings that go back to 1910). When transcribed to CD format and cleaned up, these recordings contain signal information not previously heard with conventional playback equipment. The information was always there on the original tape, but just not accessible. However thanks to advances in audio recording and transcription technologies, now it is.

Except as otherwise determined from the following information about loudspeaker performance, when used in a typical domestic home situation, an amplifier/loudspeaker combination of less than 100 W RMS will simply produce overload distortion in all of its forms on transients and/or intermodulation distortion on steady state heavy programme material such as loud rock music.

The electric guitar can produce very high half-wave amplitude transient (very short time) signals because the plectrum (pick) is pushed away from the player when normally playing a note hard. The amplitude of the peak signal can be as high as the string is deflected over the pickup’s sensitive area – beyond which distortion will be evident.

However this distortion may not be heard in practice because the amplifier may actually simply chop the top off the transient peaks, in which case everything else will sound just fine up to that power output level where the whole system collapses through severe overload. What will be heard is a modified sound, but the modification may not be discernible to all but the most critical listener.

However, a rational approach to Guitar Amplifiers is that if you cannot hear the distortion then don't worry about it!!

If you can hear unintended distortion then turn the volume control down a few notches – or use a more powerful amplifier that will tolerate your playing excesses.
 

LIVE STAGE PERFORMANCE

Commercial guitar amp systems for live stage work come in wide range of options.

From the humble 5 watt practice amp to the gargantuan systems used for large venues, the musician has a myriad of choices available.

Large PA/sound reinforcement systems are beyond the scope of DIY so are not described here.

Of course the size of the venue, floor coverings, crowd numbers (people soak up power) and indoor v outdoor conditions (outdoor offers no reflected sound) affect the minimum power needs.

IMPORTANT: It is of no use connecting a powerful amplifier to small loudspeakers or inefficient loudspeakers or connecting with undersized cables where losses will be high (potentially up to 50% or more)

Generally speaking, for indoor venues:

·        more speakers deliver better sound

·        more speakers deliver better dispertion into the room.

·        larger diameter speakers deliver better sound

·        the more speakers there are in a cabinet the better the sound and acoustic efficiency

Think of it like mono v stereo.

In my experience 12 inch drivers sound better than 10 inch, 15 inch drivers sound better than 12 inch, 18 inch drivers sound better than 15 inch. The more cabinets the higher the acoustic efficiency.

However for general venues such as weddings, parties, dances, hotels and clubs a single 12 inch speaker with a 40 W tube amp is usually adequate for a guitar amp.

Guitar rigs fitted with two or four 10 or 12 inch speakers and a 100 Watt amplifier are wasted unless the venue is large or the sound is very loud. Heavy metal players sometimes like to push the system into overdrive to obtain a certain level of distortion – but this means an SPL of at least 100 dB.

See SPL Warning Notice re hearing damage.

One of the curious aspects of modern band sound systems is that the typical band will have two fifteen inch PA speakers set high on pedestals either side of the stage for voice, one to eight 12 inch loudspeakers for guitar, one or two fifteen inch loudspeakers for keyboards, and sometimes two eighteen inch subs for drums - but just ONE fifteen inch loudspeaker for bass guitar !!

The resultant tonal and volume balance between instruments is obvious.

Food for thought !!

Consider this testimonial from John. W Ashton at Reverb.com

John W Ashton7 years ago edited

I am 62; made my living playing from 1974 - 2006. My experience has been that "tone is in the ear of the beholder."

We start with an inspiration; mine was Jimi. So I got a Stratocaster, but couldn't afford the Marshall. First pro amp was a 65 Deluxe Reverb. Through the years I owned and played lots of different Fender combos, mainly below 40 watts. I had a brief affair with a 50 watt Marshall half -stack and another stint with a Road 100 watt solid state 4-12 (anyone remember those?). By the time I was in my 30's I was playing in medium sized clubs and getting the evil eye from the sound tech at load-in. "F#%k off! This is my tone! Deal with it!" But I had an epiphany at Herman's Hideaway in Denver when I set up a Super Reverb with a Vibrolux Reverb on top, and the sound guy said "too much! You want to be in the mix or not?" I realized that if my stage volume was too loud, he was gonna pull my level down or even out altogether, and I wasn't going to be in the mix out front. So back to the Deluxe Reverb, then a Rivera Super Champ. With a mic and a monitor mix, it was as loud as I needed, and totally in the sound tech's control. My advice is if you are playing live, keep your stage volume reasonable so you are going to be heard. Go to some shows where there's a sound tech running the system and listen to the guitarist's sound in the room. Is it in the mix, or just in the room? If it's just in the room, that guitarist isn't doing themselves any favors up there. Check out how his/her amp projects into the room like a flashlight, sounding thin and harsh in the beam and flat and dull outside that beam. "If the sound man ain't happy, ain't nobody happy". Unless thrash and crash is your sound, you need a mix! Write lyrics? Want people to hear them?? Then control your stage volume. The way to do this is with an amp that's 40 watts or less, and tilt it so it's facing your head, where your ears are, not the back of your knees. Use a god mic (I bring my own) and think about a small baffle placed a foot or so in front of the speaker(s) to stop your amp projecting into the room, where your sound is dissipated and all that's left in your tone is harsh treble. Even if you are in an instrumental trio, your audience should be able to hear the tone you have invested so much of yourself to achieve.” (end quote)                                                                                                                                      Source: https://reverb.com/au/news/the-evolution-of-fender-amps

40 Watts is a realistic power output for an amplifier using a pair of 6L6G or EL34 tubes and seems to be to most commonly used rated power level for commercial tube guitar amplifiers over time for general purpose usage in live venues without sound reinforcement.

If you like distortion from overdriving the power stage then it is easier and less expensive in replacement tubes to achieve with a smaller rather than larger power amp.

 


 

 

 

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This page last modified 12 July 2023
 

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